Retinol is one of the most talked-about skincare ingredients, and also one of the easiest to overdo. The good news: Korean brands have built a reputation for gentle, beginner-friendly retinol formulas. Here's how to start retinol the slow, steady way so your skin gets the benefits without the irritation.
What retinol does
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. In skincare, it's used to help skin look smoother and more even in tone over time, and to make fine lines and rough texture less noticeable. It works gradually, so think in months, not days.
- Retinol is the most common form and a good place to start.
- Retinal (retinaldehyde) is a closely related form that's often used in lower amounts, like in eye serums.
- Bakuchiol is a plant ingredient sometimes called a "retinol alternative." It's gentler but works differently.
How to start: the low-and-slow method
- Start with a low strength. A 0.1% retinol is a great first step. Move to 0.3% only once your skin is comfortable.
- Use it at night, 2 to 3 times a week. Increase to every other night after a few weeks if your skin is happy.
- Use a pea-sized amount for your whole face, on clean, dry skin.
- Buffer if you're sensitive. Apply moisturizer first, then retinol, then moisturizer again (the "sandwich" method).
- Keep the rest of your routine simple. Don't use retinol on the same night as exfoliating acids or scrubs.
- Wear sunscreen every morning. Retinol can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
A note for deeper skin tones
Irritation can leave dark marks behind on melanin-rich skin. That's why going slow matters even more: a little dryness is normal at first, but stinging, peeling or redness that doesn't settle is a sign to pull back. Pair retinol with a barrier cream and daily SPF. Our routine for melanin-rich skin walks through the full picture.
Our picks for starting retinol
COSRX Retinol 0.1 Cream
Anua Retinol 0.3 Serum
Anua 3 Ceramide Barrier Cream
Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum
- COSRX The Retinol 0.1 Cream: a beginner-strength retinol in a soft cream. Start here.
- Anua Retinol 0.3 Serum: the next step up, once 0.1% feels easy.
- Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Barrier Cream or Torriden SOLID IN Ceramide Cream: barrier creams for buffering and for the nights in between.
- Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum: a gentle retinal formula made for the eye area.
See everything in Retinol & Renewal.
What to expect
- Weeks 1 to 4: some mild dryness or flaking is common. Moisturize generously.
- Weeks 4 to 12: skin often starts to look smoother and more even.
- Stop and rest your skin if you have burning, swelling or a rash, and go back to a simple routine.
Who should skip retinol
Skip retinol if you're pregnant, trying to get pregnant or breastfeeding unless your doctor says it's okay. If you use prescription skincare (like tretinoin) or have a skin condition such as eczema or rosacea, check with a dermatologist before adding it.
The bottom line
Start low, go slow, moisturize well and never skip sunscreen. Retinol rewards patience. Not sure it's right for you yet? Take the routine quiz.